Thursday, March 31, 2016

Wines for Spring

By Liza B. Zimmerman

Punxsutawney Phil seems to have been right. Our somewhat reliable groundhog friend didn’t see his shadow this year, which is supposed to mean that we will we have an early spring. We have already seen evidence of that on the West Coast and for some days in New York, even though snow covered parts of the Midwest in late March.

So it’s time to stock up on wines for sunny weather. For me that includes lovely, acid-driven white wines; fruity roses; and lots of bubbles. 

Wine as a Vacation in a Bottle
I sometimes pop a bottle in honor of where I would most like to be at the time. There are few times a year I wouldn’t want to be on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, just south of Naples. The Terredora Dipaolo "Rosaenovae" Irpinia Rose 2013 will take me right there. It is made from 100 percent Aglianico grapes, which are indigenous to the region, and has lovely fruit flavors.

Hopping down the Italian Peninsula, the weather is often warm and sunny in much of Sicily. One of this ancient island’s indigenous grapes makes another lovely rose the di Giovanna "Gerbino" Rosato di Nerello Mascalese 2014. It is fun to see how this super-aromatic grape can structure and shape a rose, as opposed to in a cool-climate red wine for which it is best-known.

Set me up on the outdoor terrace of a little café in Provence any day of the week. I will take an enormous Nicoise salad, topped with fresh tuna, with a mineral and fruity glass—or two—of rose. The La Vidaubanaise "Le Provencal" Cotes de Provence Rose 2014 is just the ticket, if you don’t have time for the vacation just close your eyes and take a sip.

White Delights
The whole Loire Valley smells like springtime when the crops are in bloom. Almost all of this region’s whites have divine ribbons of acidy that refresh the palate and the soul. However Muscadet, as the region is on the Atlantic Ocean, almost smells like sea salt and minerality the minute you open the bottle than any wine I know. The Bonnet-Huteau "Les Laures Granite de Vallet" Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2012 is fresh, grassy and citric.

Sauvignon Blanc is another grape that always sings of spring to me. Most white Bordeauxs are based on it and are so delicious. The crisp Chateau La Mouliniere Blanc 2014 is a great example. Another good one would be Joel Gott’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc made across the ocean in California.

Pop the Cork
There’s nothing better than to herald the arrival of warm weather with a bottle of bubbles. If you love Champagne the non-vintage Gosset Brut "Excellence" NV is a great place to start. The non-vintage Henry Varnay Blanc de Blancs Brut sparkling wine, from the Loire Valley, is more of a delicious everyday indulgence.

For something locally produced, with a French influence, try the Domaine Saint-Vincent Methode Champenoise Brut NV. It is made by the Gruet Family from Champagne and with its subtle yeasty flavor might just pass for one if you taste it with your eyes closed.

Cheers from DrinkUpNY!

Liza B. Zimmerman has been writing and consulting about wine and food for two decades. She is principal of the San Francisco-based Liza the Wine Chick wine writing, education and consulting firm. She has worked on staff and freelance at national magazines such as Wine Enthusiast, The Magazine of La Cucina Italiana, Wine Spectator, Where SF and the Examiner. She currently contributes to Cheers, Wine Business Monthly and the Examiner, among others.

Zimmerman focuses on demystifying wine and transforming it into a tool for business and networking for companies all over the country. Past clients include Genentech, Roche and IBM.

She has visited all the world’s major wine regions and is one of select few in the U.S. to hold the Diploma of Wine & Spirits (D.W.S.), the three-year precursor to the Master of Wine.

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